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Dyeing help
· Bleaches
· Formulas
· Production tips
| Dyeing help |
1. Starting out When working on an area that has changed color, remember that this
may simply be a PH color change. So, if you used a tannin formula, then
neutralize with a protein formula, and vice versa. However, if the area has
turned white, you can assume color loss has occurred.
2. Getting ready If the color loss is the result of chlorine bleach, it
is very important to neutralize the chlorine with sodium bisulfate or acetic
acid (see Bleaches for mixtures). If you don't do this first, the
chlorine will continue to bleach out the dye as you add it.
3. Actual dyeing
a. Prepare the area of the garment to be worked
on––clean, dry, and flat.
b. Protect the surface you are working on with a towel.
c. Make sure the dye pad is properly moistened.
Note: If not, follow the instructions on the inside cover.
d. If a single solid color is needed on a large area gently apply the pad to
the color loss area, pushing harder to get a deeper color. If you go too dark
or the wrong shade simply dryclean the dye out. The dye doesn't set until you
press it in.
Note: This step should always be taken after the area has dried and with a
protective cloth below and above the dyed area to protect the press pad and
grid plate cover from discoloration.
e. If a blend is needed, use a "Color Wheel" (which you can purchase
from any artist's supply store for about $5) to learn which colors to blend.
f. Always apply the lighter pad first, so the darker colors don't contaminate
the lighter pads.
g. Better still, use the plain white pads from the Fashion Dye Pads as
the blending medium (cheesecloth will also work). Wet the plain pad with the
same formula for replenishing the regular pads. Then, blend lighter to darker
and apply to the color loss area as in step (d.).
Note: Dryclean this pad when done to restore to white.
h. For very fine work, follow the procedures above but use a Q-Tip.
i. Use very small amounts of colorless Chapstick to create a barrier between
two colors on tight multicolor areas to protect the other colors.
j. Use the plain white pad, wet out as in step (g), to soften edges and blend
in new dye to old. This step also works on very mildly affected areas all by
itself sometimes.
Note: see Mineral Oil Baths on Formulas page.
Click here for information on dye pads. [link to dye pads]
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| Bleaches |
| Bleach |
Sodium
Perborate |
Hydrogen
Peroxide |
Chlorine
5% |
Sodium
Bisulfite |
Sodium
Hydrosulfite |
Titanium Stripper
(Sulfuric Acid) |
| Not Safe
with |
white wool, silk, some dyes |
some dyes |
wool,silk,nylon, some dyes |
some dyes |
metal fabrics, some dyes |
metal fabrics, some dyes |
| Get from
: |
Supplier(powder) |
3% drug store, 35% supplier |
5% store, 15% supplier |
Supplier(powder) |
Supplier(powder) |
Supplier (purple liquid) |
| % to test |
same as bath |
3% |
1% |
1/2 teaspoon to 2 oz water |
1/2 teaspoon to 2 oz water |
full strength |
| Speed
with |
heat |
alkali, heat |
acid, heat |
acid |
acid |
acid,heat |
| % for
bath |
1 oz per gal of water,100 deg F |
10 oz 3% per gal of water, 100deg
F |
1 oz 5% per gal of water,100 deg F |
1 oz w/ 1/4 oz acetic acid per gal of
water |
2 oz per 5 gal of water or 1 oz per gal of
water,85 deg F |
6.5 oz per gal of water,85 deg F |
| Time in
Bath |
8 - 24 hrs |
1/2 - 3 hrs |
10 - 30 min |
only long enough to remove the
stain |
only long enough to remove the
stain |
only long enough to remove the
stain |
| Rinse
with |
2 - 3 oz acetic acid per gal of
water |
thorough rinse with water |
antichlor and rinse |
thorough rinse with water |
thorough rinse with water |
thorough rinse with water |
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ALWAYS TEST FABRIC AND DYE FIRST
Antichlor-29% Acetic Acid or 1% sodium bisulfite
First three bleaches listed are oxidizing bleaches; the last three are reducing
bleaches. |
| Dyes |
Black, Blue and Brown dyes
are generally acid in nature.
Red, Orange and Yellow dyes are generally alkaline in nature.
A good procedure for ink blotches on white shirts is to soak the affected area
overnight with Wilson Laundry Targo or Laidlaw Laundry Wetspo and General
Formula 209.
DO NOT BE ALARMED BY THE MASSIVE SPREADING OF THE INK! Wash the shirt
thoroughly. If any ink traces remain prepare a bath of 6.5 oz of Titanium
Stripper to 1 gal of water at about 90 degrees F, then as you stir this
solution add Rustgo by the drop until it turns Lime Green. At this point soak
the shirt until the traces of ink are gone and rinse thoroughly.
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| Formulas |
Chemical Formulas
• Prespot Dry for dryside stains before
cleaning: 1 part VDS/1 part charged detergent/1 part spray spotter
(straight)
• Prespot Wet for wetside stains before
cleaning: Same as above with 1 part water added (this formula has a built in
leveling agent)
• Leveling Agent for preventing water rings
when using wetside agents: 3 parts charged detergent/5 parts VDS (perc not
recommended)
• Mineral Oil Baths for restoring sheen to
silks and/or slight dye loss: 1 pint mineral oil to 1 gal. perc (keep in a
sealed container)
• 2 in 1 Formula for latex paint and ground
in soil: 2 parts Streetex/1 part Picrin, products of R.R.Streets
Mathematical Formulas
• Drum or Tank Volume: square (width in inches x depth in inches)/23=total
gallons for 1 inch of height
• Total x height in inches=total tank volume
• Round (3.14{pi} x (radius in inches squared))/231=total gallons for 1
inch of height
• Total x height in inches=total drum volume
• Celsius to Fahrenheit: ((X/5) x 9)+32=answer
• Fahrenheit to Celsius: ((X - 32) / 9) x 5=answer
• Calculating Perc Mileage: starting volume of perc in gallons - (ending
volume of perc in gallons - gallons of perc bought since last
calculation)=total gallons of perc used; total number of pounds cleaned/total
gallons of perc used=pounds cleaned per gallon |
| Production tips |
Shirts
• When using the slotted collar former make sure it has the slot to the
rear, as this will aid in the shirt hanging properly with less adjustments.
• Use net bags, or draw strings to tie collars and cuffs on top of each
other, when doing less than a full load, as this will aid in mechanical action.
• If when you run a shirt through one hand (squeezing slightly) you get
water, you should extend the extract time. Otherwise they won't dry properly on
the press, and wrinkles will develop.
Pressing
• Use a piece of collar/cuff material to cover the holes in the steam
iron, between the iron and the shoe. If you are getting distortion marks from
excessive steam pressure, the material will aid in diffusing the steam and
eliminate the distortion marks.
• To stop iron cords from fraying where they are tied above the press, use
a 6" piece of flexible PVC. Also, get a 10’ length of pipe wrap and
cut it to length to cover the hoses from the iron to the flex tube, and from
the flex tube to the lowboy. This helps hold the flex tube in place and
protects from burns.
If you have questions or would like to pass along other tips, please contact
us. Click here. |
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